陆游: 苦涩仕途 鲜彩人生
LU YOU A BITE OF LIFE
撰文/张泽坤 Written by Alan
撰文/张泽坤 Written by Alan
文人:陆游(1125—1210)
生平简介:作为南宋时代的爱国文官,儿时因战乱辗转流离;青年时因被妒才曾屡遭权贵陷害,中年因主张积极抗金被保守派群攻打压,直到晚年奉赵诏入京,担任同修国史、实录院同修撰一职。
Literati: Lu You (1125—1210)
Profile:
A famous Chinese ancient poet, a patriotic civilian official. Born as a high-class noble offspring, Lu has a rough career until his twilight years, when he was eventually accepted and valued.
陆游,字务观,号放翁,“南宋四大诗人”之一。出生于名门望族、江南藏书世家的陆游才华横溢,却因波谲云诡的官场斗争,上科举受阻,仕途失意;但这并不妨碍他对美食的钟爱,在他的诗词中,咏叹佳肴的足足有上百首,还记述了当时苏州和四川等地的佳肴美馔,其中有不少是对于饮食的独到见解。一方面,他悲愤激昂,要为国家报仇雪耻,另一方面,他闲适细腻,咀嚼出日常生活的深永滋味。今天,我们来一起品味陆游歌颂美食的诗词歌赋,以探其潜藏在文字下延绵的思乡情绪。
As one of the most famous poets in Southern Song Dynasty, Lu You, however, didn’t have a smooth official career due to peers’ jealousy. The sufferings of career didn’t suffocate his passion to food, to life. Lu wrote hundreds of poems, expressing his love and the beauty of the delicacies.
粥
“世人个个学长年,不悟,长年在目前。我得宛丘平易法,只将食粥致神仙。” --《食粥》
特写:伍湛记及第粥伍湛记""生滚"粥制作精良,鲜味可口,粥底以瑶柱、腐竹、猪骨等原料熬制,味道特别鲜美。它的及第粥最初的用料是猪肉丸、牛膀和猪粉肠,分别谐指状元、榜眼和探花。先用猪细骨熬制清汤,放干贝,然后明火煲粥。所选的原料也很讲究,如肉丸用七成瘦肉三成肥肉巧制而成,物超所值。
Feature: Assorted Meat Congee
Blending the delicately chosen condiments including pork meat ball, scallop, and pig intestines, the well made congee has a wonderful and sweet taste. In addition to the delicious flavor, the congee has also been implied cultural meanings within.
美食小贴士:
关于及第粥,这里有有一个十分动听的传说,相传有位秀才上京赴考,其妻怕他路途遥远挨饿,专门把肉丸猪肝等饱肚的材料放在一起煲粥,秀才十分感动,最终摘得状元桂冠衣锦还乡,把这种粥命名为“及第粥”,后人纷纷效尤,
而伍湛记就是广州地区及第粥的佼佼者,除此之外,伍湛记虽然历经翻新,但依然古色古香保留着古老的装修,云石、红木台椅、墙上挂有字画,是广州西关情怀的标配。
Food Tips:
The congee is also called “Champion Porridge” for a beautiful story, in which a scholar’s wife prepared a bowl of porridge with love and care for her husband when he was about to go afar to pursue career, and eventually the husband did stand out and came back home as a champion.
鱼
“人间定无可意,怎换得、玉鲙丝莼。且钓竿渔艇,笔床茶灶,闲听荷雨,一洗衣尘。”
--《洞庭春色》
特写:西湖国宾馆紫薇厅之“西湖醋鱼”
西湖醋鱼作为头牌菜之一,其制作方法十分讲究:主食材需为一斤半左右的草鱼,鱼身破上七刀后勾醋汁茨,加上少许酱油和煸香的姜末;烹饪时,鱼不能蒸熟,而是将鱼身浸入沸水锅烫熟,这样醋鱼就能焯得嫩、滑与鲜美,几乎无腥气。
Feature: Steamed Carp in Vinegar Gravy
As a famous cuisine of West Lake, it’s elaborately made. A local West Lake carp needs to be soaked in vinegar after well-done and then steam the fish with soybean sauce and fried ginger slices. The culinary method will keep the sweetness of the fish, but get rid of its strong fishy smell.
杭州西湖国宾馆经新旧世纪交替之年,大规模翻建整修建成。亭台楼阁、小桥水榭、曲廊修竹、古木奇石,入眼皆景。其紫薇厅是G20国宴指定餐厅,装潢典雅、尊贵大气,作为当地为数不多兼备佳肴和美景的地点,在这里,抬头东望,湖上十里尽收眼底,可享春访桃花夏观荷,秋来赏桂冬瞻松之趣,更有竹风一窗,荷风半床的清恬之境。
Food Tips:
As a place of holding state banquets, Hangzhou State Guest Hotel is decorated with natural Jiangnan style, especially the picturesque scenery of West Lake. And of course, the delicious cuisine from West Lake is a must for tasting.
葱油面
“一杯齑餺飥,手自芼油葱。天上苏陀供,悬知未易同。”
--《朝饥食齑面甚美戏作》
特写:“南粉北面”葱油面
开洋葱油面是山东著名的传统小吃。也是城隍庙的著名小吃之一。来自山东的“南粉北面”连锁店开洋葱油面制法很讲究,它首先将葱白切成寸段,放温油锅中炸制(用这种方法熬制好的葱油色泽深红带黄、葱香浓郁、闻之即可增食欲)。然后将葱油配上已经用素油炒、酒糖浸过的开洋,即成开洋葱油。将面条煮熟,沥去汤汁,拌上开洋葱油,即成开洋葱油面。
Feature: Boiled Noodles with Oily Dried Shrimp Meat
Originated from Shandong province, the famous traditional snack is much easier to be made. Fried the shallot to get the delicious oil, and then add dried shrimp meat fried with alcohol and sugar to the noodles.
美食小贴士:
“南粉北面”连锁餐饮店根据大江南北的饮食习惯差异,组织了一批饮食专家对传统的民间美食从配方到口味、从产品到服务,环境到经营模式进行了全方位的研究与整合。其制作出的80多款标准化产品已受到广大消费者的青睐,尤其是以山东秘方结合西式快餐做成的“葱油面”,被消费大众誉为中式快餐的改革先锋。
Food Tips:
Catering to different eating habits between people from southern and northern areas, the recipe, flavor and eve the service of the noodles have been adjusted.
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