回到拉萨
撰文/冯倩雯Written by Samantha
“回到拉萨,回到了布达拉宫……”纯粹的旋律随灵魂飘落,凝固成亘古延绵的乐章,带我们追寻南丝绸之路的最深处,朝圣神秘的日光城,拜读布达拉宫的传说,亲吻圣洁的纳木错,回归心灵的故乡。
有这样一条古道,当踏上去时,你会有一种在蓝天白云中婉蜒穿行的错觉,因而会有人说,这条古道离天最近。而当你沿着这条古道走下去,便会跨越举世闻名的世界屋脊,一直走到山那边的印度、尼泊尔。这就是被学界定为“丝绸南路”的唐蕃古道。
唐蕃古道,又名馒头岭(古)驿道。从长安出发,抵达拉萨,横贯中国西部。据闻是松赞干布为迎接文成公主进藏而修。它犹如一支长歌,吟唱古老岁月镌刻在雪域高原上的那首壮美史诗。公元7世纪初,文成公主作为和平使者,前往西藏。在唐蕃古道上,至今仍流传着她进藏时所携带的诗文、农书、佛经、史书、医典、历法等典籍……
每一条古道都承载着属于它的历史使命,而唐蕃古道,不仅承载着和平,还有商贸、文化。它的开通,稳固了昔日唐朝与吐蕃的关系,更加深了沿途国家的往来。进藏的僧侣把中国的丝绸、茶叶从天路带到了印度、尼泊尔,远至西亚、西非;也将印度与尼泊尔的宗教艺术带进了中国。因此,其又堪称为西藏境内的“茶马古道”。
布达拉宫:依旧呼吸的圣殿
“无数的宫殿死去,成为废墟,或成为博物馆,丧失了生命力。而布达拉宫继续活着,作为某种精神生活的载体,屹立于世界屋脊之上,活在过去与未来之中。”
每当黎明,太阳从拉萨东面石头山岗升起,把光芒投向海拔3700多米的拉萨城的时候,最先亮起来的是布达拉宫。在松赞干布的祖先拉托托日年赞的时代,佛教开始传入吐蕃。传说拉托托日年赞第一次看见拉萨——天堂般的平原,东有红山;绿草茵茵,牛羊肥美。松赞干布即位后决定“践履先王遗迹,往彼吉祥安适之处,而作利益一切众生之事”,于是,“至红山顶修筑宫室居焉”。如今,其已成为藏传佛教的圣地。
布达拉宫是世界海拔最高、也是西藏现存最庞大、最完整的古代宫堡建筑群。依山垒砌,“极尽精美之能事”,“妙丽庄严,世绝其伦”。主体建筑分为白宫和红宫两部分,据说初为文成公主所建宫殿位于南面一座九层楼的高塔,与布达拉宫用银子和黄铜打造的桥连接着,桥上安着风铃、挂着帷幔,每当公主去见藏王时,桥就歌吟飘舞起来,相当唯美。
纳木措位于西藏中部,是中国第二大的咸水湖,世界上海拔最高的大型湖泊。海一样辽阔的湖面,玛尼堆连成的轨迹,摇曳的五彩经幡,圣洁的美让人无法抗拒。
它的形状就像静卧的金刚度母,湖上巨石耸立,南面有乌龟梁、孔雀梁等18道梁,北面有黄鸭岛、鹏鸟岛等18个岛,像极了千年不动的神灵俯瞰大地。湖的四面建有4座寺庙,即东有扎西多波切寺,南有古尔琼白玛寺,西有多加寺,北有恰妥寺,象征着佛教上所说的愠、怒、权、势。“纳木错”在藏语上意为“天湖”,据传其为帝释之女,念青唐拉之妻。仿似云彩的经幡蔓延于这圣湖之上,寄托着藏民对于天神的虔诚。
每个到过纳木措的人,整个灵魂都像被纯净的湖水所洗涤。这世界上最高最美的神湖让人震撼,站在湖边,犹如置身于一个蓝色的世界。淡蓝、浅蓝、灰蓝、宝蓝甚而蓝黑,深邃入眸,蓝得清澈,蓝得丰润,蓝得迷人,似乎包容了整个世界。
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西藏西北方向与“丝绸之路经济带”相对接,正南方向与“21世纪海上丝绸之路”在南亚沿海地带相交汇,是对国家对外开放总体战略布局的丰富和完善,近年来更与周边国家探索多元化的互利合作模式。拉萨海关统计数据显示:去年1至11月,西藏对尼泊尔贸易总值为106.5亿元人民币,占西藏外贸总值的91.15%。今年,拉萨亦将推进中尼友谊工业园建设,加快拉萨综合保税区建设。
BACK TO LHASA
Lhasa, a holy city located at the roof of the world, is known as “The City of Sunshine” and “The Land of Gods”. Honored with a long history of 1300 years, Lhasa is quite rich in unique cultural and spiritual resources, especially its Buddhism culture. Today, numerous cultural relics and historic sites covered with thick religious color remain in Lhasa. The attractions of Lhasa do not only lie in its cultural and historic sites, but also in its breathtaking natural scenery.Tang-Tibet Road: The Silk Road Near the Sky
There is an ancient road which creates an illusion that you can walk through the beautiful sky. Some people say that this road is the nearest place far from the sky. When you walk along the path, you can walk through the roof of the world and then reach the India and Nepal beyond the mountain. Tang-Tibet Road that is also called Mantouling Ancient Road traversed the west of China from Changan to Lhasa. It is like a magnificent epic that was engraved in the Mysterious Snowy Plateau. Every ancient road has its own historic responsibility given by people. In ancient it strengthens the contact between the Tang Dynasty, Tibetan Empire and some countries near Chia.
The magnificent Potala Palace is Lhasa's cardinal landmark. It is the world’s largest and most intact ancient castle-style complex located on the highest altitude. A grand stele and commemorating the architectural achievements of ancient Tibetans, the Potala Palace is truly a cultural treasure of the Chinese nation.With its base on the southern slope of the Red Hill, the Potala Palace was built along the hill. Its crimson and white wall and its golden roof shine in glory in Lhasa, the “sun city”.
Lake Namtso: Heavenly Lake
Situated at an altitude of 4718m, Namtso is considered as a holy lake revered by Tibetans. The lake has a special place in Tibetans' heart and it literally means “celestial or sacred lake”. The dazzling turquoise water brides the horizon, making it difficult to tell whether you are walking on the water or the lofty snow-capped mountainous range looming far ahead is within your easy reach. The lake is also a major draw for migratory birds and brown bears, wild yaks and Tibetan sand fox, and other plateau species.
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The northwest of Tibet connected the “Silk Road Economic Belt” and its southern part was also linked with part of the “21st Century Maritime Silk Road” in the southern Asia, which developed the strategy called “Opening-up Policy”. China has been exploring a diverse cooperation model with neighboring countries for mutual benefit. According to the information from customs in Lhasa, the total value of trade between Tibet and Nepal occupied was ¥ 10.65 billion, which accounted for 91.15 percent of export trade in Tebet from January to November last year. Lhasa will build the industrial park that represents friendship between China and Nepal and accelerate the construction of comprehensive bonded zone in Tibet.
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